Tax Information And Guide

Placencia Springs Back

In the fall of 2001, Hurricane Iris slammed into Belize. The 13-foot-high storm surge that swept over the southern village of Placencia uprooted trees, leveled houses and hotels, wrecked boats and severely damaged the funky beach town's claim to fame -- a meandering ribbon of sidewalk that serves as its main street.

The village was nearly wiped out, but this didn't dissuade locals like Omar Sierra, who literally picked up the pieces and started over. Sierra bought debris from washed-out hotels and other businesses and used it to rebuild Omar's Restaurant, Guesthouse and Laundry (011-501-523-3236). His creative construction reflects the eclectic patchwork of Belizeans and expats who call this laid-back edge of Central America home.

Less than two years after the devastation of Iris, Placencia is back. Locals are once again welcoming a wide mix of guests -- from college-age backpackers who bunk in inexpensive cottages to seasoned travelers who prefer to base their Belizean adventures out of more luxurious beach resorts.

Huff and Puff
All You Want While little of the town itself survived the storm, two resorts stood strong. The Inn at Robert's Grove (800-565-9757; www.robertsgrove.com ) and the Rum Point Inn (888-235-4031; www.rumpoint.com ) both needed major cleanups but suffered no significant structural damage.

The Inn at Robert's Grove was even able to stay open, housing the insurance adjusters and the electrical workers brought in to make repairs. Both resorts have since manicured their grounds and replanted their gardens, and are once again busy pleasing guests with their full slates of amenities and relaxed tropical atmospheres.

Apocalypse Now and Then
When Iris hit the Turtle Inn (800-746-3743; www.turtleinn.com ) -- owned by film- and winemaker Francis Ford Coppola -- it cleared the set, making way for a complete redesign. Now, soaring thatched roofs, oceanfront villas and exotic detailing created by a team of Indonesian carvers combine to capture the Academy Award-winning director's vision of an exotic beach resort. And it's definitely worth getting out of the boat.

Wild Wild Wet
Its seaside location makes Placencia a great base for water sports. Resort operators along with outfitters like Nite Wind Guide Service (011-501-523-3487) can escort you into the warm, turquoise sea to fish or to snorkel amid the corals and underwater canyons of the hemisphere's longest barrier reef. This corner of the Caribbean is also one of the few places in the world where you can swim with the ocean's largest fish, the whale shark, a peaceful plankton eater that grows up to 50 feet long and usually appears in the area between March and June.

Let It Blow
Placencia is also the closest harbor to Belize's prime southern sailing area. Starting within 20 miles of the coast, dozens of pristine cays adorn the barrier reef and feature excellent snorkeling, wildlife watching and easy, scenic cruising.

The Moorings (727-530-5424; www.moorings.com ) opened its new base here to offer both bareboat and crewed charters aboard its fleet of 18 catamarans and three monohull sailboats.

Jungle Jam
Aspiring Crocodile Hunters head to the nearby Monkey River and the Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary, a jaguar reserve. Ocean Motion Guide Services (011-501-523-3363; www.ocean-motion.com ) runs daily tours to both locations, where visitors often spot exotic birds, howler monkeys, iguanas, manatees and crocodiles.

Walk This Way
Placencia's famous sidewalk thoroughfare, which Guinness World Records lists as the narrowest main street in the world, has been partially repaired. The walkway, originally laid down in the 1940s then paved in the '60s, measures 4,071 feet long and 4 feet wide. Locals and visitors use it as the town's major artery, leading them north from the harbor past shops, guesthouses and beach bars.

All Hail the Tail
The annual Lobsterfest starts cooking on June 27 and wraps up with a boat parade and the blessing of local fishing boats on June 29. This year's celebration will also feature steel bands, children's games, craft exhibits, nightly dances, a fishing tournament and, of course, lots of lobster. Proceeds from the event will go toward beautifying Placencia's beaches.

Monkeying Around
The Purple Space Monkey Village (011-501-523-4094; www.purplespacemonkey.com ), with its Internet café, espresso machine, restaurant, bar, lending library, travel agency and miscellaneous shops, is a multifunctional meeting place noted for serving up great breakfasts and burgers. Just up the road, the Pickled Parrot Bar & Grill and Cabanas (011-501-606-7336) dishes out burgers, fajitas, pizza and more elaborate dinner entrees. Just one of its Belizean Breeze cocktails will definitely jumpstart the pickling process.

Posted online 03/25/04.

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